Can you hear me, Major Tom?

Tengboche — 3860m.

If you’re reading this, our satellite modem is working!

(Photo by Daniel Byers)

Today we departed Namche Bazaar, leaving behind running water, cheap electricity and wifi. We climbed through the clouds to reach Tengboche. I got my first sight of Everest and Lhotse. At this distance these famous mountains are less impressive than Ama Dablam (6814m) with its snow clad pyramid rising into the cloudy sky beside us. Around Phungi Thanga the fog finally overran us as we ate lunch. Even with our view of the mountains cut off, the hills were spectacular, with melt-water cascading down to the river. Arriving in Tengboche we happened upon a wedding ceremony at the monastery, a rare sight three days from Lukla.

From this point onward, all communications is going out by satellite! In the last weeks of August, our equipment rental in Kathmandu fell through sending us scrambling for a replacement.  Thankfully, Ed Wright, COO of US Space Mobile Communications , heard about our situation. He overnighted a Thuraya XT from California to DC, and hand delivered it to John Furlow in front of the Reagan Building on the day of his departure. Physically the phone looks like an indestructible cellphone with an 80s style antenna. Sending data over satellite makes internet access in Namche Bazar look fast by comparison, but up here it’s the only option.

To facilitate writing posts, we’ve hauled a pair of netbooks up with plenty of spare batteries. I’ve heard rumors of that one of the porters is carrying a diesel generator, but have yet to see it. With any luck our power will hold out through Imja.

Finally, I’d like to thank the members of the London Hack Space for providing some last minute technical assistance when I was in Kathmandu. Without their help, these updates would likely be constrained to 160 characters.